Nora Roberts's Travelogue of Ireland:
Kenmare—August 25, 2004
Long day yesterday, but everything went smoothly. BW and I got a good chunk of sleep on the plane. Then went through the usual Heathrow hell. I think we could've walked to Bath by the time we got from one gate to the other.
But arrived safe and sound in Cork. The airport there is under massive construction. Just horrible. And still, better than Heathrow. We get our car, our map, and head out for Kerry.
Oh, I hear the people behind me on the plane to Cork chatting. Chatted all the way in their Brit voices. I'm too tired to pay attention to what they're saying, but do hear, as we're landing, them discussing American v Brit versions. And I realize they're talking about home shows.
Then we land, and I get up to get my bag from the overhead. Recognize them immediately. It's the Ground Force gang!! I immediately tell them I love their show, and watch it often. They're all smiles, very pleased and we chat a bit as we're getting bags. It occurs to me later that this team really likes each other. It's one thing to be happy and friendly on TV, and another to cheerfully chatter away for an hour on a plane. That's nice.
There's traffic out of Cork. Real traffic, not Irish cows. A booming economy takes a toll in this area. But once we're out and away, it's gorgeous. The green that's nowhere else it seems but here. That gorgeous gilded light and cloud shadows on the hills. I'm too punchy from the trip to fully appreciate it, but there's plenty of time.
BW, as always, takes to driving on the left with no problem. Amazing to me.
We cross over to County Kerry, with the mountains, Macgillycuddy's Reeks looming. They're rough with gray stone, just rising and spreading in front and beside us. We saw these mountains on our first trip to Ireland, and it's nice to be back.
Through the pretty town of Kenmare, and minutes to our hotel.
Gorgeous. It's a private hotel, a big, sprawling old manor house down in dull gold stucco, lots of pitching and sloping roof lines. It's on the River Sheen, with its pretty little falls and woods. There are hydrageas here, and along the roadside to here, some with heads as big as Mars. Lovely, lovely gardens blooming with impatiens and daisies and dahlias.
We've come through bits of rain and sun to get here, and now it's cloudy but dry.
Aidan, the manager, shows us up to our room. It's a hike in this sprawl, but he's very charming and welcoming. Our suite is simply marvelous. A generous foyer, a couple of steps up to the living area, with its fireplace and pretty terrace overlooking the river. The owner's obviously put a lot of his collection here, pretty art and interesting bits.
Our bedroom also has a terrace, and a walk-in closet/dressing area. And the bath has a HUGE Jacuzzi tub. Or, as they say here, an American motor tub. We're soooo happy to have arrived.
We've booked massages in their spa, just across the courtyard, and passed the stables. I'll make friends with the horses later.
The spa has a big whirlpool, sauna, steam room, and a gorgeous pool. The room's stone and stucco, wood ceilings, lots of glass. The pool itself is curvy with little stone islands in the middle that hold wood columns up to the lofted ceiling.
I think I slept through most of the massage, but I know I feel human again afterward.
We have a drink at their pretty bar, and I see a baby I hope to get my hands on eventually.
We ate in their more upscale restaurant, with a good bottle of champagne and marvelous food. The service is charming, and easy. We'll adjust to the slower pace.
Back to the room, watched some of the Olympics. Interesting to see them live, and through BBC. Another perspective entirely.
In bed by 10:30, and slept like corpses until 9 this morning.
Lovely to wake to the river, the sound of the falls, the soft, soft light. BW's going to breakfast, and I go to the gym. Got a nice workout in, them he arrives in time for us to take a swim. Water's beautifully warm and soothing.
A little trouble getting connected to AOL, but we've managed.
Going to drive into Kenmare, see what we can see.
I feel a little strange having nothing to do that must be done. I'm sure I'll get used to it pretty quickly.
Nora
Index | Photo Album | Nora on her hotel terrace near Kenmare
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